by David Rowland
Paisley has been the principal town of Renfrewshire since the Middle Ages. During its long history, the town has witnessed kings, queens and princesses, wars and religious strife, witchcraft, poets, looms and shawls, bobbins and thread and 'Mill girls'.
Paisley Abbey
Paisley’s chief glory is its ancient abbey, founded in 1163 by Walter Fitzalan, High Steward of Scotland. Throughout its long history, the abbey has survived fires, collapsing towers, desecration during the Reformation and threats of demolition, yet here it stands, fully restored, one of the few Scottish abbeys still in use as a church.
Visitors viewing the mediaeval nave and fully restored choir will appreciate the sheer beauty of the building. A tapestry of light through the fine stained glass windows defines the intricately carved choir stalls and the old regimental banners hanging below the vaulted ceiling. The French organ is one of the best in Europe and fine music and choral singing is a feature of the abbey today.
St Mirin’s Chapel was a site of pilgrimage to the shrine of St Mirin. A unique, sculptured stone frieze depicts the life of the saint. In the Sacristy, a small museum displays the remarkable finds from the abbey’s recently excavated mediaeval sewer.
For the visitor, there is a coffee bar and souvenir shop. Guides are available during the summer months.
Paisley Town Hall
Paisley’s magnificent town hall, opened in 1882, was donated to the town by the local thread magnate George A Clark. The large temple-fronted building is in Corinthian and Ionic style. It supports two towers, the taller with octagonal belfry, bells and carillons. The interior, recently restored, provides a large suite of halls suitable for weddings, concerts, exhibitions and conferences.
Paisley Museum and Library
This, Scotland’s first municipal museum, was opened in 1870. The donor was Sir Peter Coats of J & P Coats, the world famous threadmakers. In 1882, art and sculpture galleries were added. New galleries were added in 1974 to house the Paisley Shawl Collection with its wonderful display of shawls and original patterns. A weaver in residence shows the weaving process on an original loom.
The museum is a treasure house of paintings, sculptures, ceramics and artefacts and is a must for a visitor to the town. The museum shop sells high quality goods, including beautiful reproduction Paisley pattern shawls.
The museum and library hold a vast collection of archive material for Renfrewshire, including a family history archive for visitors wishing to discover their 'roots'. The library is an Aladdin’s cave of rare books, manuscripts and material of local importance.
Coats Observatory – Oakshaw
Opened in 1883, the building was donated by Thomas Coats, the thread magnate and extended in 1892 by his son, James. It houses many valuable, old instruments – an equatorial telescope by Cook, a sidereal clock, an orrery, a planetarium, a seismograph and meteorological instruments (for opening times apply to Paisley Museum).
Come and see the wonders of the Universe in Paisley!
Coats Memorial Church
Known as the Baptist Cathedral of Paisley, this beautiful building took nine years to complete and was opened in 1894. The vast undertaking was funded entirely by the Coats family in memory of their father, Thomas, who was a life-long Baptist. A building of majestic form with a spire soaring upwards, its sheer scale and detail is astonishing. It is Gothic Revival at its best.
Inside no expense was spared. Sumptuous carvings in wood, stone and marble are everywhere – in the Baptistry, the choir stalls and the finely detailed pulpit. This ecclesiastical palace is still a place of worship and is the unique setting for the graduation ceremonies of the nearby University of Paisley. Guided tours are available by arrangement.
Paisley Arts Centre – New Street
Housed in a lovely, old, converted church (the Laigh Kirk), Paisley Arts Centre is a small, intimate theatre, which stages a wide variety of entertainment. It is especially noted for its work in promoting the performing arts for young people and children, as well as staging plays, musical events and comedy shows. It is a popular venue for a town that has produced stars such as Kenneth McKellar, Tom Conti, Gerry Rafferty, Carole Laula and playwright John Byrne.
Sma’ Shot Day
Each July, a parade of people dressed as the old Paisley weavers marches through the town behind a sturdy drummer beating the Charleston Drum. This celebrates the Sma’ Shot Holiday. The sma’ shot was a cotton thread used to reinforce the fabric of the Paisley shawls. It was an essential part of the shawl, but, as it was not seen on the finished surface, the employers (nicknamed the Corks) refused to pay the weavers for the extra cost of material. After a long struggle against this injustice, the weavers won and, in celebration, named their July holiday Sma’ Shot Day.
The Sma’ Shot Parade ends outside the abbey, where an effigy of the Cork is burned, hundreds gathering to cheer. Paisley that day is in festive mood, with a carnival and stalls to entertain the crowds.
Sma’ Shot Cottages – George Place and Shuttle Street
Nineteenth century mill workers cottages in George Place were lovingly restored by members of the Old Paisley Society and opened to the public in 1985. Next door in Shuttle Street, the society saved and restored a typical weaver’s cottage of the late 18th century. Each room is beautifully furnished and full of fascinating articles. There is an exhibition area and a not to be missed teashop serving 'clootie dumpling'. An enthusiastic member of the society will show you around and tell you tales of Old Paisley.
The Wallace Monument – Elderslie
Elderslie, to the west of Paisley, was the birthplace of the Scottish patriot, Sir William Wallace. A large, ornate monument, inset with bronze panels, portrays his heroic deed in the fight for Scottish Independence against English domination. Each summer, the Wallace Day Gathering is held at the monument to commemorate Scotland’s greatest hero.
The Weaver’s Cottage – Kilbarchan
Kilbarchan is a typical old Scottish village with attractive, brightly coloured buildings, once famed for weaving tartans and other handloom products. Today, the influence of the weaving industry can still be seen in the Weaver’s Cottage, built in 1723. This is a National Trust property and is open to the public. It operates a museum of weaving and is notable as being one of the few examples of ‘cruck roof’ structures in the area.
The village Steeple, built 1775, contains a statue of the celebrated Scottish piper, Habbie Simpson. This figure is one of the key characters in the village’s annual Lilias Day pageant.
Lochwinnoch and Castle Semple Loch
Lochwinnoch, a small village with some good examples of early 19th century vernacular buildings, skirts Castle Semple Loch. At the lochside is the Castle Semple Centre, where you can hire a boat or even an aqua-trike or surf bike and pedal away to your heart’s content. A wide range of equipment is available and fully qualified outdoor activity instructors offer tuition at all levels. The loch is spacious, but shallow and safe.
If you are a confirmed landlubber, you can hire bicycles, stroll round the loch, or try a spot of fishing.
Muirshiel Country Park
Adjoining the loch is Muirshiel Country Park, the largest of its type in Scotland, extending over 108 square miles. Go hill walking to experience the wonderful views over Renfrewshire and take a nature walk where you can see the flora and fauna of the park, including a badger sett. All the walks are signposted and park rangers are on hand.
RSPB Centre
For keen bird watchers, the loch has a wide variety of resident and migrant birds, which can be observed from hides around the loch. Children will love the nature walks and pond dipping run by the friendly rangers. A shop sells good quality souvenirs.